Student Travel Award Report: Janet Aspley

12 February 2016 -

Report on Research Trip to Nashville, Tennessee, 10 – 30 September 2015

I made this research trip in support of my PhD project ‘Hillbilly Deluxe: Rhinestone Tailoring, Country Music and Change in The American South 1947 – present’. My project is funded by AHRC through the Design Star Doctoral Training School.

My project seeks to explore what can be learned by viewing and interpreting the cataclysmic social and political upheavals that have taken place in the American South during the period through a study of rhinestone tailoring, a style of performance dress and design closely associated with country music. The style juxtaposes the construction values of bespoke tailoring with bright colours, pictorial embroidery, sparkling rhinestones and the styling of the American West.

Nashville is the centre of the country music industry, so was the ideal location for this initial research trip. It is also home to The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, a centre for country music scholarship. Manuel Cuevas, who is the most important tailor/designer working in the style, has his workshop and showroom there. 

My visit was extremely productive. I was able to carry out an interview with Manuel, who is still working in his eighties, and to observe him and his staff at work. I was particularly entranced to see Pancho Martinez, his embroiderer at work; his style of free motion machine embroiderer is very highly skilled.
In the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, I spent time researching their collection of fan magazines and trade papers. I traced a fascinating debate about authenticity in the readers’ letters pages of Music City News 1964-65, which included discussion of the demise of western wear as a country music staple. I also did object research. I focused on the work of Nathan Turk and saw a number of garments that he made for ‘The Most Colorful Hillbilly Band in America’, The Maddox Brothers and Rose. This was very useful in my work tracing the origins of motifs that Turk used to traditional Eastern European costume. 

I was able to gain access to some private collections: those of the designer KatyK and the musician Jim Lauderdale, who owns a fine suit made by Turk. I had hoped to access the major collection owned by the musician Marty Stuart; that wasn’t possible because of his touring schedule, but I have been promised access on my next visit. 

Through a contact, I was offered an interview with Susie de Santo, who is the costume designer for the ABC television show, Nashville. The show’s characters come from across the country music spectrum, so her thoughts on how she styles the male characters were very informative. And as a fan of the show, I was thrilled to be on set, in Rayna James’ kitchen!

During my visit, the Americana Music Conference and Festival took place. I attended the AMA Awards show, where the house band were dressed by Manuel; I also attended The Grand Ole Opry, where the veteran performer Mel Tillis performed in a Manuel jacket. I was also able to interview Mr Tillis, who has worn rhinestone tailoring since the 1950s.

The trip also enabled me to view and photograph suits on display both at The CMHoF and at The George Jones Museum. Both have examples from a range of makers that illustrate the differences in style and aesthetic between them.

I attended as many industry events as my busy research schedule allowed and made many useful contacts and got a lot of help. I’m thrilled by the response to my project in Nashville. 
Many thanks to the Design History society for supporting my trip.